BMW M5 - Brake Cooling Duct Installation
E39 - Model Years 1999 to 2003

This is based on the education I got reading
www.m5board.com

This took me about 4 hours. Your mileage may vary.

 

If you are experiencing brake fade at the racetrack, then you want to do this modification. Some people use "sink drains" to make one large hole, instead of drilling many holes along the theory that the 1/2" holes cause too much turbulence to let good cooling air into the brakes. That works, and they are probably right that one 3" hole lets in more air than many 1/2" holes. But I've seen remarkable results on a hot day by having done this modification to my M5. I personally prefer the more subtle look of the smaller holes.

 

 

Before.

This is the cover with the brake duct hole already cut out at the factory.

BMW Part Numbers: (as of July 2001)

Cover Left 51-71-2-694-832
Cover Right 51-71-2-694-899

Air Duct Left: 51-11-7-890-013
Air Duct Right: 51-11-7-890-014

NEW: (7/14/01)

If you want to use existing covers, and drill the holes yourself, here are a couple of templates to use. Download and Print at 72 dpi, there's a ruler in each picture for reference.
Click here for templates    Left Side    Right Side

 

Comparison of 2 covers.

On the Left, the factory duct with the exit hole already cut out.

On the Right, no hole, but it has the modification to block engine heat from affecting the outside temperature guage. (which, in my opinion, isn't the problem, and thus didn't solve the abnormally high readings. But I digress, as that is a whole different M5 problem.)

 

 

One of 2 of the long bolts that hold the bumper to the car. They require a Torx T-50 driver to remove them. Don't expect to find a T-50 at your local hardware store. Fortunately, Kragen does have them in their tool department.

(This picture is taken pointing UP into the grill area of the front bumper.)

 

 





The tools needed to do the job:

1/2" drill bit (to let the air in)
5/32" drill bit (to connect plastic to aluminum air ducts)
T-50 torx driver (to remove bumper)
10mm socket (to remove many bolts)
5/16" socket (to remove the black bolts)
awl (to mark the center of the squares)
#2 phillips screwdrivers (to remove center pan)
Soft pad or blanket (to rest the bumper when removed)

 

The driver's side of the grill, before modification.

 

Passenger's side with cover removed, showing the exit of the aluminum air duct.

 

Close up of last shot.

 

Looking forward into the bumper from the driver's side wheel well.

Disconnect the fog lights before sliding the bumper off.

 

Gently slide the bumper straight forward. Place it on a soft pad or blanket on the ground.

Lossen the screws that hold up the center panel under the engine. That will give you more room to work.

 

After removing the bumper, disconnect the headlight washers by pushing in on the black part of this hose juction...

 

The tubes will easily separate.

 

Before brake duct is inserted.

 

Closeup of driver's side aluminum air channel.

 

The bumper, on the ground, before modification.

 

Closeup of the way the grill is affixed to the bumper.

Tip: If you drill the holes with the grill still attached, be sure to tighten these up before putting the bumper back on. They tend to loosen up when you are drilling from the other side.

 

Drilling the first few holes in the grill.

Tip: To make sure I hit the center of each square, I first used an awl to mark the center, then drilled a pilot hole with a 1/8" bit, then used that small hole to guide the 1/2" brad point bit.

 

Top view of driver's side brake duct.

 

Side view of driver's side brake duct.

 

Brake ducts in place.

Test fit the ducts, then slip the bumper back on, so you can be sure of how far into the aluminum channel to slide the plastic ducts.

 

With the brake channel in place, drill through the aluminum, into the plastic with 5/32" bit. Drill 2 holes in the bottom, and 2 holes in the inboard side. Try to drill the holes about 1/2" away from the rear edge of the plastic duct.

Tip: a right angle drill makes this much easier if the car isn't up on a lift.

 

I used these "nuts" (sorry, don't know their technical term), available from your friendly BMW parts dealer.

It doesn't matter if you are exactly in the right spot, just cut away a small bit of the plastic, and slip on the nut (with the threads on the inside of the duct)

 

Then simple slide the duct into the aluminum channel, and screw in using #10 pan head 1/2" long screws. These are brass plated in the hope that they will rust less.

 

Looking into the brake duct from the front after it's been screwed in.

View of installed duct from under front center of car.

 

Both ducts in place. Re-attach the center panel, then it's time to slip the bumper back on and screw everything back into place.

 

All the holes drilled, and a view all the way through the air duct into the wheel well.

 

With the covers back on, here's where the air comes out.

 

Help! I'm trapped in the wheel well!

Oh well, at least now I'll get more air!

Hope that worked for you.